Nomadic Narrative

emphasizing the invisible and underground nature of life

Puerto Viejo’s new luxury neighbor

I was on Costa Rica’s Caribbean side last week reviewing the area’s first luxury hotel. (Read my review here.) The hotel had a very chic and new-agey slogan ― “every day is a new day.” The ultra-modern white hotel lived this daily by uniformly rotating all splashes of color right down to the pen on your nightstand. This is quite the contrast to the laid-back surfers’ paradise of Puerto Viejo where you are more used to seeing slogans like “a sunny place for shady people.”Le Cameleon Hotel reception

Way behind Panama’s Bocas del Toro, Costa Rica’s stunning southern Caribbean is the snail when it comes to following the Greater Caribbean’s upscale trend. Costa Rica’s Caribbean has some of the most phenomenal beaches in the country, which have been, until now, dominated by the backpacker crowd. And just about every person I spoke to is very happy with things staying the same. From a local cab driver to two longtime expats, many feel that the new luxury hotel just doesn’t “fit in.”

Cocles Beach Costa RicaBut why not? Why are so many locals afraid of diversifying tourism offerings in the area? My guess is that like in many parts of the world, when money comes in, those who can’t pick up the monetary pace are forced to less desirable areas. Casco Viejo in Panama is another great spot struggling with these same issues.

Casco Viejo, Panama

Casco Viejo, Panama

At the same time, as money and interest pour into the area, the roads may finally get paved and trash collection might improve, among other things. Having a swank hotel for the people who make those urban planning decisions certainly might push development along in this area. As long as the hotel is building a sustainable relationship with the community, i.e. training and employing locals, thinking “green” and promoting responsible tourism, is this luxury hotel not a welcome addition?

There’s something to be said for that cool Caribbean vibe. You just can’t help but slow down because there’s very little you can do to speed it up. Will luxury tourism change this way of life? How does adding sleeker accommodation affect both the community and the tourist? I’d like to hear your thoughts.

In terms of how luxury versus budget travel affects a person’s experience, there’s a good discussion happening over at TWOGORTW this week.

2 Comments

  1. Great review. I was in that are a few years ago and loved it. The idea of rotating the entire hotel’s colors is very cool, labor intensive, and wonderful.

  2. Thanks, Toby! The area is definitely beautiful and I agree that rotating the hotel’s colors is something very special. I can’t wait to go back to see how they put together the new beach club.

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