Nomadic Narrative

Chillax: To loosen or reduce the level of stress by employing a more relaxed and groovy outlook. – Urban Dictionary

I’ve passed through Cahuita, Costa Rica at least a dozen times. Apart from marveling at the mini-mall-like bus station, I hadn’t give the area much thought; and wow have I been missing out. A sleepier version of other nearby beach towns such as Puerto Viejo and Bocas del Toro, Cahuita lulls you into that Caribbean trance with a friendly local vibe, plenty of good food and no shortage of hammocks. Swaying day and night to a cool, reggae beat (chillin’) along with coconut-clad palms (relaxin’) lets you do just that, i.e. chillax.

I hadn’t been in town for more than 30 minutes before I had no idea what I had been thinking about a minute in the past, and no intentions of exerting the energy to think one minute into the future. My steps slowed and my breaths deepened. I remembered to look up, which is something I forget to do a lot in the city.

I arrived at around 1 p.m. and decided the first thing I needed to do was take a swim. At that moment, sand-and-sea took precedent over cold beer and coconut rice. I headed down the dirt road dissecting town to the water’s rocky edge. Momentarily disappointed, I looked right and spotted a huge, lush cove lined with a long, white-sand beach. I walked to the foot of the beach where a park ranger asked me to sign a register and make a donation. I was at the edge of Cahuita National Park.

Many National Parks charge an entrance fee but Cahuita National Park asks for a donation. Though well-staffed, the park is crawling with students and locals who perform their own “beach sweeps,” picking up garbage washed ashore.

The water felt unusually warm, so I lingered. I was drawn out only by the thought of the “comida tipica” advertised throughout town. It was well past 3 p.m. when I decided to eat, but the Coral Reef restaurant was still serving locals and tourists on the ground floor and on the balcony. The restaurant was more upscale than you might expect in this tiny beach town. Combined with well-prepared local specialties, this was another welcome surprise.

I had planned on roughing it in Cahuita. However, I stumbled upon a place with manicured gardens and hammock-strewn private patios tended to with heart and soul by the ever present owner, George. Cabinas Safari was yet another nice surprise. I felt bad that George had to pry open a side window so that he could adjust the door lock I had inadvertently set on safety.

After a little chillaxin’ in my patio hammock, I perused town for dinner options. While it was tempting to go back to the Coral Reef, I decided to explore a bit more. Glowing through orange diaphanous curtains gathered at the center, Cocorico’ seemed a little new-agey for an Italian/pizza place, which intrigued me. Chalked on a blackboard at the entrance was an announcement reading: Tonight’s Movie “American Gangster” at 7:30. Beyond the linen covered tables was a sunken area with comfy wicker furniture facing a projection screen. Traveling solo or not, being able to watch a movie on a large screen with locals and tourists while sipping wine topped my to-do list.

Hearing locals shout comments at the screen was one of those insights we always look for when traveling ― “A hundred thousand out of work if the drug trade stopped!” “3/4 of the New York Police department convicted!”

Between the national-park-quality surroundings, the great food and the local ambience Cahuita takes one of Costa Rica’s top chillaxin’ spots.

Making due on Cahuita's hammock-free beach.