Nomadic Narrative

Lacing up my hiking boots on a hot and humid Granada morning, I started to wonder if I were overdressing. Perhaps I could get away with a pair of Tevas around Mombacho Volcano, I thought. Deciding on the boots, I peered into my bag and considered bringing my wind breaker. The black, long-sleeved garment looked like the last thing I’d ever wear on such a steamy day.

I met my tour group along the calzada, Granada’s pedestrian walkway, just before our scheduled 9:00 a.m. departure. We were an intimate and diverse group of four, including our guide from Nicaragua. (The United States ― living in Costa Rica, French ― living in Egypt, and Holland ― working as a tour guide around the world.)

In a mini-van, we sped through the colonial town and 15 minutes (10 kilometers) into the countryside to the Reserva Natural Volcán Mombacho. As we pulled up, a youth group from the United States was pouring out of a yellow, school bus. Forming a circle, the leader gave two brief instructions and then laced his hands and bowed forward with the group in sync singing, “Swing Low, Sweet Chariot…”

At that moment, our guide appeared and said that we would have to wait 40 minutes because the youth group had already booked the charabanc cart which transported passengers up the mountain. No worries. We bought cuajada, torpedo-shaped pieces of soft, white cheese wrapped in homemade tortillas and bags of coffee. Our guide pulled a couple of mamóns, a fruit from the rambutan family, off of the tree and we sat on one of the picnic benches to enjoy our mid-morning snack.

As we were sipping lukewarm coffee from a tear in the plastic bag ― the custom in these remote parts ― and watching howler monkeys leap from branch to branch, up pulled three more school buses full of local teenagers. Screaming and laughing, they competed with the howler monkeys which are said to be the loudest animals in the world. According to our guide, it was an unusually crowded day at the park.

At 11:00 a.m., the four of us, along with hordes of excited field trippers, hopped onto the park’s “ecomobile” and began the steep ascent to Mombacho’s crater at 1,345 meters above sea level. We arrived at the main lodge 20 minutes later. The temperature was much cooler which made me recall that wind breaker.

The local ranger led us to a miniature model of the area and briefly explained the area’s topography, flora and fauna. We also got a quick tour of the available, rustic upstairs accommodations for overnight visitors keen on spotting the endemic Mombacho salamander which only comes out at night. (At $30 with all meals and tours included, I’d say the Eco Albergue Mombacho is a great deal!)

The trail head was well-marked and the paths well-maintained ― I could have worn the Tevas. The 1.5 kilometer loop around the first crated is self-guided if you can read Spanish. Though, often it’s more fun to go with a local guide who can share insights and anecdotes. Other trails include “Cráter Mombacho 2″ and “Sendero el Puma (4 kilometers),” both which require a guide due to the difficulty, the remoteness and as our guide explained “to have someone who can radio for help in case you get attacked by an animal.” (see prices below). There are tigrillos and jaguars in the park, but given the heavy traffic, I’m guessing that those are rare sightings.

The first mirador, or viewpoint, was less than 10 minutes from the entrance and leaned over the lush crater. At first we couldn’t see anything through the clouds, but a sudden gust of wind revealed the deep pocket in the earth’s surface. We continued along the trail through cloud forest and dwarf forest. After warming up next to one of the fumaroles, we headed to another viewpoint where, on a clear day, you can see Grenada, Lake Nicaragua and the Isletas.

We couldn’t see a thing. Our guide looked at the sky, at his watch, and at the sky again and said that we had plenty of time if we wanted to hang out and wait for the sky to clear.

Thwack! A raindrop the size of a golf ball hit my leg. Two. Three more! We ran up the path. The wind started to blow so hard that I had to cover my ears. A woman up the trail who was carrying an umbrella was lifted into the bushes. It took two men and a woman to help her up. At that point everyone hot-footed it back to the lodge without stopping to marvel at a single bromeliad or epiphyte. The experience gave me a sense of how mountain climbers who get caught in unexpected storms might feel.

Empapada, soaking wet in English, became our word of the day. Luckily, our guide successfully negotiated a seat for all of us on the next ecomobile. I got the warm, front seat, but felt compelled to tell my new friends that the AC was blasting and I froze the whole way. Back in Grenada felt like being next to the volcanic fumaroles again.

I am reminded that even a seemingly “tame” excursion can turn into an adventure.

Getting there

By bus: From Granada take a bus toward Rivas (near the market) and get off at the Mombacho stop at a junction called El Guanacaste, about a 20-minute ride. From the junction, take a taxi or walk two kilometers to the park’s entrance up the dirt road.

By car: Follow the signs along the Granada-Nandaime highway. From Managua, take the highway to Masaya. Continue past Masaya for a couple of kilometers where you will have to take a right following the signs that say Catarina. Continue to the Granada/Nandaime highway) and you will see the dark wood sign painted Reserva Natural Volcán Mombacho in yellow on your left.

By tour: There are many operators. Make sure your tour includes transportation and all entrance fees.

By “ecomovile” from the park’s entrance to the crater: 8:30 a.m. to 10:00 a.m. / 1:00 p.m. and 3:00 p.m.

Entrance fees in Cordobas:
Children on foot 15.00
Children with transportation 60.00
Nationals on foot 25.00
Nationals with transportation 100.00
Foreigners on foot 50.00
Foreigners with transportation 200.00

Guide service prices in dollars:
Mombacho Crater 1 $5 (max 10)
Tigrillo Trail $10 (max 5)
Puma Trail $15 (max 5)

Park hours:
Closed Mondays
Tuesdays and Wednesdays by reservation only (call 505+248-8234 or 8235, fax 505+249-4144 or email fcrnvm@ibw.com.ni)
www.mombacho.org