Nomadic Narrative

I was anxious to get out of the city mid-Thursday afternoon. I hot-footed it to the Coca Cola bus station in downtown San José to catch the noon bus to Manuel Antonio; however, much to my chagrin, it was full. I was quickly directed to the “collectivo” which was departing at the same time. It was really just an hour longer, for a total of 4 ½ hours, and I was curious as to where the long route would take me, so I hopped aboard.

Slamming on the breaks just before crashing into a tree, the bus veered. Thankfully, not too far off of the road as the precipice to the left was a sheer drop to the valley below. At least half of the ride to Manuel Antonio on the “collectivo” happened along a dirt road past isolated towns — a great experience, for the adventuresome.

After navigating the busy city center and the country back roads, I had finally landed in warm and tranquil Manuel Antonio, Costa Rica with a long weekend ahead to research my favorites:

1. Believe it or not, you can totally do a “Bridget Jones” in Manuel Antonio Park. So, you say you’ve only got a sarong and sparkly flip-flops, but you want to hike from the park entrance two kilometers to one of the tamarind-lined coves? … no worries. However, if you really want to play the part, wear a pair of Crocs or Tivas — you can still keep the sarong.
2. Take a guided tour of the park to really experience and learn about the area’s natural beauty. The local guides just have a knack for spotting wildlife.
3. Pack a few snacks to bring into the park, but beware that voracious monkeys will sniff these out. If carefully concealed, you will not have a problem. Bring water, sandwiches and fruit. Alcoholic beverages are not allowed in the park unless they are discretely concealed as the park ranger will point out.
4. Hopefully you’ll have an extra day to rent a chaise lounge along the main beach. From this perfect people-watching spot, take dips in the sometimes rough waters, sip piña coladas, have lunch delivered and just enjoy a good book under a giant, beach umbrella.
5. For a great sunset cocktail, head to the Barba Roja. The patio commands a spectacular sunset. The staff are friendly and the bartender makes a mean mojito.
6. For a dinner of fresh shrimp spring rolls and Panko-crusted tuna with views to the Pacific, don’t miss the Agua Azul restaurant. It’s definitely the town’s “in”spot.
7. Alas, the night is young! Walk a few hundred meters to the historically fascinating El Avión restaurant for drinks and dancing. There is also a very decent restaurant.
8. If you like a good, strong cup in coffee in the morning, head to Café Milagro. Also, if you want to pick up a few souvenirs for family and friends, there’s a good collection here.
9. For the days when you’re in the mood for something more casual, right across the street from the very large liquor stone on the main road, there’s a tiny soda, a mom-and-pop restaurant, serving great casados.
10. For 200 colones, about 50 cents, you can take the public bus to the bustling town of Quepos, just 15-minutes away. The buses travel in 30-minute increments. Wander the streets perusing local shops, eateries and bars. For a splurge, drink a margarita and eat some fish tacos at El Gran Escape.

To love Manuel Antonio, you have to know how to balance the disarray of the beachside town by finding refuge in the spectacular hillside retreats which line the road to Quepos.