Costa Rica tops "Happy Planet Index"

A group using the Happy Planet Index has conducted a study to determine the “happiest” countries in the world. The survey takes into consideration three variables: happiness, ecological footprint and life expectancy. Interestingly enough, Costa Rica tops the list. Read the article here.

It doesn’t surprise me that Ticos (short for Costa Ricans) would express that they are “happy.” The lifestyle here simply exudes it on a daily basis. Language is always a good indicator of culture. One of Costa Rica’s most popular expressions is “pura vida,” which translates literally as “pure life” and means something like “cool” or “life is good.” Whenever you ask someone in Costa Rica ¿Cóma está? or ¿Que tal? (How are you, in English) the inevitable response is “pura vida.”

This more laid-back, happy-go-lucky attitude frustrates some who demand that life move at a faster pace. The bottom line is that life does not move fast here, and if anything, visitors or expats who feel frustration at this, need to step back and grab onto those moments as opportunities for self-reflection. In this period of self-reflection, will most people not opt to re-prioritize in order to spend more time with their family or enjoy a drink with friends?

If we analyze these experiences, which ask us to shift consciousness, we can redefine our idea of “success,” and collectively lead more fulfilling and happy lives.

The global crisis has pushed many of us into reflection. We have an opportunity to set new priorities and redefine the way we live. As the article points out, it’s not only important for our own well-being, but for the health of the planet, a place we all share.

Read BBC’s take on Costa Rica and other Latin American countries topping the Happy Planet Index here.

Breathing in the cool, moisture-laden air while hiking around the Monteverde Cloud Forest.

Fourth of July in Costa Rica

Hot dogs? Check. Beer garden? Check. Fireworks? Check.

With 200,000 plus expats, mostly North American, living in Costa Rica, the Fourth of July holiday doesn’t go unnoticed. In its 49th year, a group called the American Colony Committee recreates all of the festivities one might miss back home right here in the capital, albeit a day early on July 3rd.

In Costa Rica’s English newspaper, the Tico Times, delivered every Friday morning, I got the 20 page Fourth of July Picnic Program — dubbed the “Souvenir U.S. Independence Day Edition 2009” — with a few hours to spare before the 8 a.m. kick off. It seems a little early to me, being that the picnic only goes to noon; however, people often like to get an early start in Costa Rica. (I didn’t make it.)

The program’s first page has a happy fourth from Costa Rica’s president, Oscar Arias. This year, Arias says: “As you look back on this most recent year in the life of your county, you have a great deal to celebrate, including the renewal that is the hallmark of a great democracy…And on Jan. 20, the world celebrated with you once more as you marked a historic moment…this year, your country has received the best birthday gift any nation can hope for: proof of a democracy that is strong, vibrant, dynamic, and always committed to the noble principles that first brought it to life.”

Nice words from our ally. Despite the tough times, we do have a few things to celebrate. Happy Fourth of July U.S.A.!

Navigating San José’s Mercado Central

San José’s Mercado Central is a microcosm of the entire capital. Built up over the years without any urban planning, in the market like in the capital, one minute you’re plugging your nose as you walk past a fish stall and the next minute you’re stopping to suck in the fragrance of fresh laurel leaves.

Smack in the middle of downtown stretching between the pedestrian walkway known as Avenida Central and the car-congested Avenida 1, the indoor/outdoor market is always a lively place.


Me queda dos de cuarenta y siete! I’ve got two, forty-sevens left!, screams a portly, grey-haired man sitting behind a table of lotto tickets at the entrance of the Mercado Central. Diez y siete! Seventeen!, shouts a woman in her fifties wearing a necklace of lotto tickets standing nearby.

Passing through one of the many entrances, the calls ensue: Que se le ofrece? Que busca? What can I get you? What are you looking for? More than aggressive sales, it feels more like just good customer service. Once inside, you can find everything from chicken feet to fresh roasted coffee to miniature carretas, hand-painted oxcarts (see carreta picture here), and so much more...

Walls of chancletas.

Just outside, El Trébol sells roasted nuts. You can't help but linger
by the door in the warm, buttery air.

The market is full of food and drink stalls. My favorite is Café Central.
This is an "Ice Coffe Central" (as it appears on the menu) made with
café crema de coco, licor de café and ice cream - all for 1700 colones, sprinkles included!

Location: The Mercado Central is located on Avenida Central and Avenida 1 between Calles 6 and 8.
Hours: The market is open from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Saturday.

Read about my first trip to the Mercado Central here.

Manuel Antonio’s top 10, and more

I was anxious to get out of the city mid-Thursday afternoon. I hot-footed it to the Coca Cola bus station in downtown San José to catch the noon bus to Manuel Antonio; however, much to my chagrin, it was full. I was quickly directed to the “collectivo” which was departing at the same time. It was really just an hour longer, for a total of 4 ½ hours, and I was curious as to where the long route would take me, so I hopped aboard.

Slamming on the breaks just before crashing into a tree, the bus veered. Thankfully, not too far off of the road as the precipice to the left was a sheer drop to the valley below. At least half of the ride to Manuel Antonio on the “collectivo” happened along a dirt road past isolated towns — a great experience, for the adventuresome.

After navigating the busy city center and the country back roads, I had finally landed in warm and tranquil Manuel Antonio, Costa Rica with a long weekend ahead to research my favorites:

1. Believe it or not, you can totally do a “Bridget Jones” in Manuel Antonio Park. So, you say you’ve only got a sarong and sparkly flip-flops, but you want to hike from the park entrance two kilometers to one of the tamarind-lined coves? … no worries. However, if you really want to play the part, wear a pair of Crocs or Tivas — you can still keep the sarong.
2. Take a guided tour of the park to really experience and learn about the area’s natural beauty. The local guides just have a knack for spotting wildlife.
3. Pack a few snacks to bring into the park, but beware that voracious monkeys will sniff these out. If carefully concealed, you will not have a problem. Bring water, sandwiches and fruit. Alcoholic beverages are not allowed in the park unless they are discretely concealed as the park ranger will point out.
4. Hopefully you’ll have an extra day to rent a chaise lounge along the main beach. From this perfect people-watching spot, take dips in the sometimes rough waters, sip piña coladas, have lunch delivered and just enjoy a good book under a giant, beach umbrella.
5. For a great sunset cocktail, head to the Barba Roja. The patio commands a spectacular sunset. The staff are friendly and the bartender makes a mean mojito.
6. For a dinner of fresh shrimp spring rolls and Panko-crusted tuna with views to the Pacific, don’t miss the Agua Azul restaurant. It’s definitely the town’s “in”spot.
7. Alas, the night is young! Walk a few hundred meters to the historically fascinating El Avión restaurant for drinks and dancing. There is also a very decent restaurant.
8. If you like a good, strong cup in coffee in the morning, head to Café Milagro. Also, if you want to pick up a few souvenirs for family and friends, there’s a good collection here.
9. For the days when you’re in the mood for something more casual, right across the street from the very large liquor stone on the main road, there’s a tiny soda, a mom-and-pop restaurant, serving great casados.
10. For 200 colones, about 50 cents, you can take the public bus to the bustling town of Quepos, just 15-minutes away. The buses travel in 30-minute increments. Wander the streets perusing local shops, eateries and bars. For a splurge, drink a margarita and eat some fish tacos at El Gran Escape.
    
    

To love Manuel Antonio, you have to know how to balance the disarray of the beachside town by finding refuge in the spectacular hillside retreats which line the road to Quepos.

Fighting flies with water bags

With desperation comes innovation. The onslaught of bugs encountered throughout the year in the tropics is enough to drive anyone to inventive measures. I spent an hour the other day researching ideas for a new drink topper, specifically designed for a wine glass.

It’s been warm and muggy the past couple of weeks as the rainy season starts. This has attracted mosquitoes and flies. A small soda, a mom-and-pop restaurant, I ate at yesterday was using a very economical method to fight flies — each table was topped with a clear plastic bag filled with water. Read a well-researched post about this remedy here.

All in all, I think the food enticed far more than the water bag averted because I hadn’t seen a fly until my plate arrived.

Read about bug battles in Costa Rica here.

Spanish colonial doors

Antigua, Guatemala is so architecturally stunning and full of life that I couldn’t figure out how to capture this on film. In the end, I tucked away my camera and just wobbled along the cobblestone streets popping into various cafes, shops and restaurants. Every once in a while, I’d pull out my camera to capture a part of Antigua that continuously caught my eye — its doors.

In this Spanish colonial city, people used to travel around by horse. The large doors worked like a garage door might today — big enough to allow your mode of transportation entrance. Some of the doors around Antigua still have door knockers above eye level, a comfortable height for those on horseback.

Sexual tolerance in Costa Rica

Costa Rica has a high degree of sexual tolerance and it is also a predominantly Catholic country. Prostitution is legal and the courts are currently considering lifting the ban on same-sex marriage. You can see examples of the level of openness in two malls near my house.

This sex shop is on the second floor of the San Pedro Outlet Mall.

A few doors away next to the gym, this one sells
"toys for adults" and "kid and adult costumes."

The "Sexy Shop" is next to the Tommy Hilfiger store on the first floor
of the San Pedro mall, which from the front really just looks like a Frederick's of Hollywood.